ื˜ื™ืคื•ืœ ื–ื•ื’ื™: ื”ืžื•ืชื’ ื”ืคืจื™ื–ืื™ ืฉืจื•ืฆื” ืฉืชื‘ื•ืื• ื™ื—ื“ ืœืฉื•ืคื™ื ื’

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ื›ื›ื” ื–ื” ื›ืฉื™ืฉ ืฉื ื™ื™ื. ื“ื” ืงื•ืคืœืก, ืงื™ืฅ 2011 | ืฆื™ืœื•ื: ื™ื—"ืฆ

ืžื—ืงืจื™ื ื”ื•ื›ื™ื—ื• ื›ื™ ืขื ื”ืฉื ื™ื ื–ื•ื’ื•ืช ื ืขืฉื™ื ื“ื•ืžื™ื ื–ื” ืœื–ื” (ื›ืžื• ื’ื ื›ืœื‘ื™ื ื•ื‘ืขืœื™ื”ื, ืื‘ืœ ื–ื” ื›ื‘ืจ ื ื•ืฉื ืœืืชืจ ืื—ืจ). ื”ื—ื™ื™ื ื”ืžืฉื•ืชืคื™ื ื’ื•ืจืžื™ื ืœื”ืชืงืจื‘ื•ืช ื‘ื›ืœ ื”ืชื—ื•ืžื™ื, ื”ื—ืœ ืžื“ืขื•ืช ืคื•ืœื™ื˜ื™ื•ืช, ื“ืจืš ื”ืขื“ืคื•ืช ื’ืกื˜ืจื•ื ื•ืžื™ื•ืช ื•ื›ืœื” ื‘ืกื’ื ื•ืŸ ื”ืœื‘ื•ืฉ. ื“ื” ืงื•ืคืœืก (The Kooples), ืžื•ืชื’ ืคืจื™ื–ืื™ ืฆืขื™ืจ, ืžื•ืฉืชืช ื‘ื“ื™ื•ืง ืขืœ ื”ืขืงืจื•ืŸ ื”ื–ื”. ื›ืœ ืื—ืช ืžื—ื ื•ื™ื•ืช ื”ืžื•ืชื’ ื”ื™ื ืœืžืขืฉื” ื•ื•ืืŸ-ืกื˜ื•ืค-ืฉื•ืค ืœื–ื•ื’ื•ืช ืžืขื•ื“ื›ื ื™ื ืฉืื•ื”ื‘ื™ื ืœืขืฉื•ืช ืฉื•ืคื™ื ื’ ื‘ื™ื—ื“. ื›ื›ื”, ืขื ืจืขื™ื•ืŸ ืคืฉื•ื˜ ื•ืกื˜ื™ื™ืœ ืžื•ืฆืœื—, ื”ืคื›ื• ืžื™ื™ืกื“ื™ ื”ืžื•ืชื’ – ื”ืื—ื™ื ืืœื™ืฉืข – ืœืื—ื“ ื”ื˜ืจื™ื•ืื™ื ื”ื›ื™ ื—ืžื™ื ื‘ืขื™ืจ ื”ืื•ืจื•ืช.

ืืœื›ืกื ื“ืจ (35), ืœื•ืจืŸ (34) ื•ืจืคืืœ (24) ืืœื™ืฉืข ืื™ืžืฆื• ืœืขืฆืžื ืœื•ืง ืฉืœ ื›ื•ื›ื‘ื™ ืจื•ืง ืขื ืกืงื™ื ื™ ืžืขื•ืจ, ืฉืœืฉืœืื•ืช, ื’ื•ืœื’ืœื•ืช ื•ืžืฉืงืคื™ ืฉืžืฉ. ืขืœ ื”ื›ื•ืจืกื” ืฉืžืžื•ืœื, ืขื˜ื•ื™ื” ื‘ืกื•ื•ื“ืจ ืžื’ืืค ื•ืžืฆื•ื™ื™ื“ืช ื‘ืชื™ืง ืฉืœ ืืฃ ืื—ื“, ื”ืจื’ืฉืชื™ ืžืขื•ื“ื›ื ืช ื›ืžื• ื ืฆื™ื’ืช ื•ืขื“ ื”ื‘ื™ืช ืฉื‘ืื” ืœื’ื‘ื•ืช ืืช ื”ืชืฉืœื•ื ืขืœ ื”ืคื™ืฆื•ืฅ ื‘ืฆื™ื ื•ืจ.

"ืื ื™ ื—ื•ืฉื‘ ืฉื”ืฆืœื—ื ื• ืœืฉื ื•ืช ืืช ื—ื•ื•ื™ืช ื”ืงื ื™ื•ืช ื‘ื–ื•ื’", ืžืกืคืจ ืืœื›ืกื ื“ืจ, ื”ืื— ื”ื‘ื›ื•ืจ ืฉืžื—ื–ื™ืง ื’ื ื‘ืชืคืงื™ื“ ื”ื“ื•ื‘ืจ, "ืจื•ืื™ื ืืช ื–ื” ื‘ื—ื ื•ื™ื•ืช โ€“ ื–ื•ื’ื•ืช ืžืชื™ื™ืขืฆื™ื ื–ื” ื‘ื–ื”, ืžื•ื“ื“ื™ื ืขื•ื“ ื•ืขื•ื“ ื•ืืฃ ืื—ื“ ืœื ืฆืจื™ืš ืœื”ืชื™ื™ื‘ืฉ ืขืœ ื”ืกืคืกืœ". ื”ืžื—ื™ืจื™ื ื‘ื“ื”-ืงื•ืคืœืก ืœื ื–ื•ืœื™ื, ืžืžืฉ ืœื: 345 ืื™ืจื• ืœื–'ืงื˜ ื ืฉื™ื, 380 ืื™ืจื• ืœื–'ืงื˜ ื’ื‘ืจื™ื, 75 ืœื—ื•ืœืฆืช ื ืฉื™ื, 55 ืœื˜ื™-ืฉื™ืจื˜ ื’ื‘ืจื™ื, 220 ืื™ืจื• ืœืฉืžืœื” ื•ื›ืš ื”ืœืื”. ืื‘ืœ ื”ืื™ืจื•ืคืื™ื ืžื•ื›ื ื™ื ืœืฉืœื ื›ืœ ืขื•ื“ ืžื•ื›ืจื™ื ืœื”ื ืžื•ืฆืจื™ื ืื™ื›ื•ืชื™ื™ื, ื•ื™ืขื™ื“ื• ืขืœ ื›ืš 130 ื—ื ื•ื™ื•ืช ื”ืžื•ืชื’ ืฉื ืคืชื—ื• ื‘ืชื•ืš ืฉื ืชื™ื™ื ื•ื—ืฆื™ ื‘ืฆืจืคืช ื•ื‘ื‘ืจื™ื˜ื ื™ื”.

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ืืœื’ื ื˜ื™ื•ืช ืฆืจืคืชื™ืช ืขื ืงื•ืœื™ื•ืช ื‘ืจื™ื˜ื™ืช. ื“ื” ืงื•ืคืœืก | ืฆื™ืœื•ื: ื™ื—"ืฆ

ืœืžืขืฉื”, ื—ืœืง ื’ื“ื•ืœ ืžื”ืืกื˜ืจื˜ื’ื™ื” ื”ืฉื™ื•ื•ืงื™ืช ืฉืœ ื“ื”-ืงื•ืคืœืก ืžืชื‘ืกืก ืขืœ ืื™ื›ื•ืช ื”ื’ื™ืžื•ืจ. ื‘ื›ืœ ืจืื™ื•ืŸ ื—ื•ื–ืจื™ื ื•ืขื•ืœื™ื ืœื“ื™ื•ืŸ ื”ืคืจื™ื˜ื™ื ื”ืžื—ื•ื™ื™ื˜ื™ื ืฉืœ ื”ืžื•ืชื’, ื”ืžืขื•ืฆื‘ื™ื* ื‘ืกื‘ื™ืœ ืจื•ืื• (Savile Row) ื‘ืœื•ื ื“ื•ืŸ – ืจื—ื•ื‘ ื”ื—ื™ื™ื˜ื™ื ื”ืžื™ืชื•ืœื•ื’ื™, ืขืจืฉ ื”ืืœื’ื ื˜ื™ื•ืช ื”ื‘ืจื™ื˜ื™ืช (*ื”ื“ื’ื ืžืขื•ืฆื‘ ืขืœ ื™ื“ื™ ื—ื™ื™ื˜ื™ื ื‘ืœื•ื ื“ื•ืŸ, ื”ื™ื™ืฆื•ืจ – ื‘ืžืงื•ืžื•ืช ืื—ืจื™ื).

ื—ื•ืฅ ืžื”ื’ื™ืžื•ืจ, ื“ื”-ืงื•ืคืœืก ืกื™ื’ืœื• ืœืขืฆืžื ื—ืชื™ืžื” ื•ื™ื–ื•ืืœื™ืช ืงืœื” ืœื–ื™ื”ื•ื™ ืฉืกื™ื™ืขื” ื’ื ื”ื™ื ื‘ื›ื™ื‘ื•ืฉ ืœื‘ื‘ื•ืช ื”ืคืจื™ื–ืื™ื:ย  ืืช ื—ื ื•ื™ื•ืช ื”ืžื•ืชื’ ืืคืฉืจ ืœืืชืจ ืžืžืจื—ืงโ€“ ื”ื—ื–ื™ืช ืฆื‘ื•ืขื” ื›ื•ืœื” ื‘ืฉื—ื•ืจ ื•ื”ื‘ื•ื‘ื•ืช ื‘ื—ืœื•ืŸ ืœื‘ื•ืฉื•ืช ืœืจื•ื‘ ื‘ืฆื‘ืขื™ื ืงื•ื“ืจื™ื. ื’ื ื”ื–'ืงื˜ื™ื ืฉืœื”ื, ืขื ืขื™ื˜ื•ืจื™ ื”ื’ื•ืœื’ืœื•ืช ืขืœ ื”ื›ืคืชื•ืจื™ื, ืžืงืœื™ื ื‘ื–ื™ื”ื•ื™, ื•ื›ืจื–ื•ืช ื”ืคืจืกื•ื, ื”ืžืฆื™ื’ื•ืช ื–ื•ื’ื•ืช (ืื•ืชื ื˜ื™ื™ื) ื‘ื˜ื•ื˜ืืœ ืœื•ืงื™ื ืžืขื•ืจืจื™ ืงื ืื”.

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ื ื•ืชื ื™ื ืžืฉืžืขื•ืช ืื—ืจืช ืœืžื•ืฉื’ ืฉื•ืจื˜ืก. ื”ืžื›ื ืกื•ื ื™ื ื”ืžื•ืฉืœืžื™ื ืฉืœ ื“ื” ืงื•ืคืœืก | ืฆื™ืœื•ื: ื™ื—"ืฆ

| ืžื‘ืœื™ื ื‘ืชืœ ืื‘ื™ื‘ |

ืื ื”ืฉื ืืœื™ืฉืข ืœื ื”ืกื’ื™ืจ ืืช ืžื•ืฆืื, ื ืฆื™ื™ืŸ ืฉืืœื›ืกื ื“ืจ, ืœื•ืจืŸ ื•ืจืคืืœ ืžื›ื™ืจื™ื ืืช ื—ืœืงืช ื”ืื“ืžื” ื”ื™ืžืชื™ื›ื•ื ื™ืช ืฉืœื ื•.

"ืื ื—ื ื• ืžื’ื™ืขื™ื ืœืขื™ืชื™ื ื“ื™ ืงืจื•ื‘ื•ืช ืœื™ืฉืจืืœ ื•ืžื—ืœืงื™ื ืืช ื–ืžื ื ื• ื‘ื™ืŸ ื™ืจื•ืฉืœื™ื ืœืชืœ ืื‘ื™ื‘. ื™ืจื•ืฉืœื™ื ื”ื™ื ืžืงื•ื ื‘ื• ื”ืจื•ื—ื ื™ื•ืช ืฉืœ ื›ืœ ืื“ื ืžืชืขืฆืžืช, ื•ืื™ืœื• ืชืœ ืื‘ื™ื‘ ื”ื™ื ืขื™ืจ ืฆืขื™ืจื”, ื™ืฆื™ืจืชื™ืช, ืื™ื ื˜ื ืกื™ื‘ื™ืช ื•ืื•ืœื˜ืจื”-ื“ื™ื ืžื™ืช", ืžืกื›ื ืืœื›ืกื ื“ืจ, "ืืคืฉืจ ืžืฆื“ ืื—ื“ ืœืคืชื— ื‘ื” ืขืกืงื™ื ืจืฆื™ื ื™ื™ื ื•ืžืฆื“ ืฉื ื™ ืœืขืฉื•ืช ื—ื™ื™ื ืขื“ ืื•ืจ ื”ื‘ื•ืงืจ".

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ืžืคืจื’ื ื™ื ืœืกื˜ื™ื™ืœ ื”ื™ืฉืจืืœื™. ื”ืื—ื™ื ืืœื™ืฉืข | ืฆื™ืœื•ื: ื™ื—"ืฆ

ืžื” ื“ืขืชื›ื ืขืœ ื—ื•ืฉ ื”ืกื˜ื™ื™ืœ ืฉืœ ื”ื™ืฉืจืืœื™ื?

"ื™ืฉ ืœื™ืฉืจืืœื™ื ืจื•ื— ืงืฆืช ื”ื™ืคื™ืช ืฉืื ื—ื ื• ืžืื•ื“ ืžืขืจื™ื›ื™ื. ื”ืกื˜ื™ื™ืœ ืžืชืคืชื— ืžื”ืจ ื‘ืืจืฅ, ื”ื™ืฉืจืืœื™ื ืžืื•ื“ ืžื•ื“ืขื™ื ืœืื•ืคื ื” ืื™ืจื•ืคื™ืช ื•ื”ืฆืขื™ืจื™ื ื ื”ื™ื™ื ื™ื•ืชืจ ื•ื™ื•ืชืจ ืจื•ืงื ืจื•ืœ".

ืืคืฉืจ ืœื”ืกืžื™ืง. ืžื—ืžืื” ืžืคื™ ื”ืื—ื™ื ืืœื™ืฉืข ืฉื•ื•ื” ื”ืจื‘ื”. ืื—ืจื™ ื”ื›ืœ, ืชืขืฉื™ื™ืช ื”ืื•ืคื ื” ื”ื™ื ื”ืžื’ืจืฉ ื”ื‘ื™ืชื™ ืฉืœื”ื. ื˜ื•ื ื™ ื•ื–'ื•ืจื–'ื˜ ืืœื™ืฉืข (ื”ื”ื•ืจื™ื), ื”ืงื™ืžื• ื‘-1995 ืืช ืงื•ืžืคื˜ื•ืืจ ื“ื” ืงื•ื˜ื•ื ื™ื™ื” (Comptoir des Cotonniers), ืจืฉืช ืœืื•ืคื ืช ื ืฉื™ื ืฉืชืคื—ื” ื™ืคื” ืœื›ื“ื™ 730 ื—ื ื•ื™ื•ืช ื‘ืจื—ื‘ื™ ื”ืขื•ืœื. ื‘-2005ย  ื ืžื›ืจื” ื”ืจืฉืช ืœืงื•ื ืฆืจืŸ ื˜ืงืกื˜ื™ืœ ื™ืคื ื™ ืขื‘ื•ืจ ืกื›ื•ื ื ืื”. ื“ื”-ืงื•ืคืœืก ื”ื•ื ืœืžืขืฉื” ืคืจืง ื‘' ื‘ืกืื’ืช ื”ืกื˜ื™ื™ืœ ื”ืžืฉืคื—ืชื™ืช.

ืื–…. ื”ืื ืืชื ืžืชื›ื ื ื™ื ืœืคืชื•ื— ื—ื ื•ืช ื‘ืชืœ-ืื‘ื™ื‘?

"ื›ืŸ ื‘ื”ื—ืœื˜, ื™ื•ื ืื—ื“, ืœืžื” ืœื? ืื‘ืœ ื›ืจื’ืข ืื ื—ื ื• ืžืชืจื›ื–ื™ื ื‘ืคื™ืชื•ื— ื”ืžื•ืชื’ ื‘ืื ื’ืœื™ื”".

ื‘ืžื˜ื” ื“ื”-ืงื•ืคืœืก, ืœื ื”ืจื—ืง ืžื”ืื•ืคืจื”, ืฉื ืช 2011 ืžื•ืงื“ืฉืช ืœื›ื™ื‘ื•ืฉ ื”ืฉื•ืง ื”ืื ื’ืœื™, ืœืฆื•ืจืš ื›ืš ื”ื ื ืขื–ืจื™ื ื‘ืื—ื“, ืคื™ื˜ ื“ื•ื”ืจื˜ื™, ืฉืขื™ืฆื‘ ืœื”ื ืงื•ืœืงืฆื™ืช ืงืคืกื•ืœื” ืœืกืชื™ื• ื”ืงืจื•ื‘. ื‘ืฉื ื” ื”ื‘ืื” ื”ืื—ื™ื ื—ื•ืฉื‘ื™ื ืขืœ ื ื™ื•-ื™ื•ืจืง. ืขื“ ืฉื”ื ื™ื’ื™ืขื• ืืœื™ื ื• ื›ื ืจืื” ื™ืขื‘ื•ืจ ื–ืžืŸ ืžื”. ื‘ื›ืœ ืžืงืจื”, ืœื ื‘ื˜ื•ื— ืฉื”ื–'ืงื˜ื™ื ืžืฆืžืจ ื•ื”ืžื›ื ืกื™ื™ื ืžืขื•ืจ ื™ืฉืจืชื• ืื•ืชื ื• ื‘-38 ืžืขืœื•ืช ื—ื•ื.

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ืืœ ืชืคืกืคืกื• ื‘ื‘ื™ืงื•ืจ ื”ื‘ื ื‘ืคืจื™ื– ืื• ื‘ืœื•ื ื“ื•ืŸ. ื“ื” ืงื•ืคืœืก | ืฆื™ืœื•ื: ื™ื—"ืฆ